Holy Island, Northumberland
Two nights at The Barn at Beal
We booked a relaxing weekend getaway at The Barn at Beal, a serene campsite offering stunning views of Holy Island. This peaceful campsite is open all year round and has a choice of 25 hard-standing pitches and 11 tent pitches, all equipped with electric hook-ups. Visitors have the option to select their pitch in advance and most have a picturesque view over the fields to the sea.
We arrived late Friday afternoon and called ahead to book a table in the restaurant. The kids had a play in the park, located next to the buildings, and we went for a drink in the bothy. The bothy is a cozy little bar heated by a wood burner. They have a good selection of ales and wines and we took them into the restaurant when our table was called. The restaurant menu does change, but there is always fish and chips for the kids. Steve chose lobster and I had hake. It was all beautifully cooked and we left very happy.
The shower block, though small in size, is well-equipped with numerous hot, high-pressure showers. However, a challenge we encountered was locating a spacious wash basin, as the ones in the restrooms were small for hand washing.
The next morning we drove over the causeway to Holy Island. It is essential to verify the crossing times before planning a visit to Holy Island, as it becomes isolated from the surrounding world due to the tides. If you don’t check times in advance it is easy to be caught out and stuck on the island. As we drove across the tide was still going out and the land magically appeared. Walkers, many of them on pilgrimage and completing St Cuthbert’s Way, could be seen making the crossing alongside the road.
When you arrive on the island, there is a large paid carpark located on the outskirts of town. We walked into town and strolled past a number of local market stalls where vendors were selling a variety of fresh produce and delicious jars of local honey.
We made our way to the ancient priory, built nearly 1,400 years ago. The priory is run by English Heritage. They had new displays and experiences for 2023. Included in the entry price is the museum where you can find out about the Viking raids, the miracles of St Cuthbert and the medieval Lindisfarne Gospels.
Lindisfarne Castle stands proudly on the rugged coastline, offering breathtaking views of the sea. The path leading to the castle is windswept and open. With a rich historical background, this castle is now preserved and managed by the National Trust. The walk up to the castle entrance is very steep. As you enter, the castle is a maze of winding passages, with steps down followed by steps up into different sized rooms. It is an architectural feast and an exciting place for children to explore. When we visited the new light, sound and sculptural displays by artist Liz Gre -Embodied Cacophonies - had been installed. It draws inspiration from the elemental nature of Holy Island. Some rooms captured the wildlife of the island and some were almost eerie as you experienced the feeling of isolation. We made our way to the very top for the magnificent view of grey clouds and the roaring North Sea, and then worked our way back down the maze of steps. Sam found this part very fun!
There is a short walk around Lindisfarne Castle which passes the 19th-century lime kilns, the castle headland and the walled garden designed by horticulturist Gertrude Jekyll. We made our way along the walk to find a sheltered picnic spot by the side of the castle. We then walked to the headland and the kids added to the pebble towers. It was getting drizzly so we did a quick loop around Gertrude Jekyll's garden, a winner of Countryfile Magazine’s Garden of the year. This garden is free to visit and is best viewed in summer when it is in full bloom. We still enjoyed our visit and took some inspiration for our own planting.
We walked away from the castle and towards the harbour. Dotted along the side were fisherman’s sheds made from old upturned fishing boats. We continued to the jetty and took in the views of Lindisfarne Castle standing proud. On a clear day you can see views to Bamburgh Castle and The Farne Islands.
On our way back into town we stopped at St Aidan's Winery to taste the Lindisfarne Mead, the locally produced alcohol of Holy Island. The winery sells all varieties of mead including a selection of whisky and other alcohol, as well as jam, biscuits and other gifts. We bought a few different meads and then had a look around the attached gift shop loved by the kids.
The kids were getting tired so we stopped for coffee, cake and ice cream on the way back to the van. The cafes are less busy towards the end of the day as the tourists fizzle out.
I love a trip to Holy Island and we will be back again next summer.